Restaurant recommendations Tuscany Chianti

For a great eating experience while in the Chianti Classico region, these are two restaurants in the heart of Tuscany in the tiny village of Panzano. I visit them frequently on my tours and my customers always enjoy their experience immensely. Both focus on traditional Tuscan Cuisine, with a la carte or economic light lunch menus. I won't bother with the addresses, Panzano is so small you won't have problems finding them. A little further down the road is Monterinaldi winery, which is also well worth a visit.

Oltre il Giardino:  The owner is a sommellier so there's a large choice of wines, but you're in Chianti and there's only one wine to order. The view is gorgeous too. Only Genuine Tuscan dishes with no concessions to international tastes, and the bill is reasonable too. What could be better? Tel 055 8528 28 English spoken.

Oltre il Giardino restaurant

La Cantinetta Sassolini: A family run restaurant with a young chef who does personal interpretations of his grandma’s home cooking. A great combination of modern methods, and traditional Tuscan cuisine. As always in my recommendations, prices are reasonable. Tel. 055 8560 142 English spoken.

Cantinetta Sassolini restaurant

Monterinaldi winery: An interesting variation could be lunch in the 18th century villa of Monterinldi winery just a little further down the road. (Località Pesanella, Radda in Chianti. Tel 0577 733 533) Here you can have a tour of the winery before your meal and then sit down to a genuine Tuscan home cooking feast with accompanying wine for €35. Reservation necessary.

The 18th century villa at Monterinaldi winery

Sergio Ceccherini

How to pair Chianti

Before we talk of how to pair Chianti, a few words of introduction. In a distant past wine was often consumed because it was cleaner than water, and for the peasants In Italy, it was just calories to put on the table. Often it was used as a flavoring for water to quench the thirst of the farm workers in summer. ( By the way I sometimes still do this; a third wine two thirds water is a very refreshing drink).

However with the passing of time, wine making evolved, and in particular it evolved around the food of every region. Then just like the theory of evolution, only those wines, or wine making methods that better adapted themselves to the situation (food and taste buds) survived. In some cases it may not have been a conscious process, while in others it was, but it’s undeniable that it was taking place.

Aged cheeses a perfect match for Chianti

The evolution of wine has been going on in Europe for hundreds of years, and it’s not a coincidence that the wines from Bordeaux or Reoja are perfect matches for lamb dishes which are part of the cuisine of those areas. In the New World wine making is a relatively new experience and not related to the cuisine in any way. Though it would be perhaps true to state, that wine making was introduced to South America mainly by the Spaniards who also introduced their food. That said, wine hasn't evolved with the cuisine as in Europe.

So let’s talk about how to pair Chianti. Chianti is light, dry and acidic, and if consumed on its own not particularly pleasant (this is true of many Italian wines). It’s difficult to appreciate at a wine tasting too, but don’t see this as a lack of quality. Local winemakers know perfectly well how to make a big easy wine,  but they don’t. In fact there is some controversy among producers about making Chianti easier to drink, as this would also make it easier to sell. However most of the top wineries (I say thankfully), refuse to do this.

Bear in mind that in Italy, maybe more than anywhere else in the world, wine has always been synonymous to the dinner table, and deeply part of every dining experience, even the most simple. So it stands to reason that Italy’s wines have been crafted to this end. Italian cuisine varies greatly from region to region, however it’s generally savory (salty), with animal fats in the north and healthier olive oil in central Italy and the south.

So here’s the reason for the dry acidic wines: tannins are perceived as velvety in combination with fats, and acidity is perceived as sweet with salt. If you don’t believe me, try an orange with salt sprinkled on it.

So in a nutshell you have an answer on how to pair Chianti…salty fatty foods. So meats in general, bacon and sausages are ideal, cheese and rich cheese dishes, red sauces (if with olive oil or other fat), pizza. These foods may not necessarily be Italian, just remember the salt and fat rule and you’re unlikely to go wrong. Even a hamburger will go down just fine.

What to avoid with Chianti? Perhaps it’s easier to say what not to eat with Chianti. Well the first thing that comes to mind is anything sweet, Chianti will taste horrible with cakes and pastries. Be careful that your main course doesn't contain anything sweet either, for example tomato ketchup.

Fish rarely goes well with Chianti because of its iodine content. The combination will make the fish taste even fishier, and the wine becomes unpleasantly metallic.

Some foods have bitter back tastes which in turn will increase your perception of bitterness in Chianti too. This last aspect is very important, as we’re not always aware of bitterness in our food. If ever you drink Chianti with a meal and it tastes bitter, before you throw it down the sink, try it with something else.

As a regular Chianti drinker, I think it’s one of the world’s best wines with a meal. It never overpowers food, becoming smoother as the meal progresses, spicy or fruity depending on it's age.

If ever in Italy, and you'd like to know a little more on how to appreciate Chianti, click here.

Sergio Ceccherini

The History of Chianti Wine

The history of Chianti goes back a long way. The world famous wine takes its name from the Chianti region in central Italy. It’s based on the Sangiovese grape in percentages which go from 80% to 100%. It can contain other varietals usually Cabernet or Merlot up to 20%. Chianti is dry, high in acidity, with an alcohol content of about 13.5%. The aromas and flavors tend to be fruity of cherries when young, and of ripe plums and spices when aged. Read this article for your enjoyment, and if you'd care to for a Tuscany wine tour, you can find me here.

The New Logo for Chianti Classico

Chianti wines have a number of denominations depending on the area where they are produced, but the only two to consider (in my opinion) if you want a high quality wine are “Chianti Classico” and “Rufina.” Chianti Classico is the wine made in the original historic wine making zone which was legally defined in 1716. As Chianti became more popular but centuries later, in 1930, the original geographical boundaries of the Chianti wine region were extended, and a further seven sub zones (denominations) were added. They are: Colli Aretini, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Senesi, Colline Pisane, Montalbano, Montespertoli, Rufina.

In the 1600’s, wine coming from a well defined zone, made from 100% Sangiovese grapes and called Chianti was being exported to England, so it’s been around with some form of regulation for a long time. In the 1840s, Baron Ricasoli, owner of Brolio Castle and the Brolio estate, did many experiments in wine making. He came to the conclusion that blending the autochthonous Sangiovese grape with 30% white varieties would produce a better wine and deposited his findings. However the Italian government ratified Ricasoli's formula into law only in 1966.

Unfortunately bad farming practices only concerned with quantity, and the addition of low quality white grapes resulted in low quality wine. As you may well know, it was bottled in a fiasco, the straw-covered bottle and “candle holder” which epitomized cheap Italian wine in the late 1960s. The reputation of Chianti sank to an all time low, and sometimes it’s still thought of this way.

In the 1970s, a small number of wineries in Chianti, and other areas of Tuscany adopted different wine making philosophies. They foresightedly focused on quality rather than quantity, and stopped following the production rules of the time. They included Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in their wines, and excluded poor quality white grapes from their blends. They also introduced ageing in small 225 litre barrels. The aim was to produce wines in the style of the top French wines for a more international appeal. Some felt (and still do) that by blending "international" grapes with Sangiovese, the tradition of Chianti was being lost, and they chose to bottle 100% Sangiovese wines, however for the rules of the time, this too was not permitted, because Chianti had to include white grapes.

Not following the rules, the new wines lost the right to be called Chianti, and they had to be marketed as table wines, which is the lowest definition of quality in Italy. However once the American press got hold of them, and realizing the undeniable quality, they were dubbed "Super Tuscans" as no other official term was available, and the name stuck. Today the Italian government has coined an officila denomination for Super Tuscans, and they go under the general name of IGT’s, which is an acronym for “Typical wine from defined geographical area.” As often happens with Italian rules, IGT means everything and nothing, wines of great quality, or junk. You’ll have to take a trip with me to find the good ones, and fortunately they do exist.

On the wake of the success of the Super Tuscans, the regulations of Chianti have been changed to accommodate the new vinification techniques. White grapes are no longer allowed and they have been substituted with international grapes such as Cabernet and Merlot (up to 20%), and infinite care is taken in the vineyard and cellar. Today Chianti is one of the world’s better wines and  has little to do with the past.

As mentioned earlier I feel the best comes from Chianti Classico and the Rufina areas. Unfortunately they are also the most expensive. If you want to spend less, try the wines from the other sub zones which considering the price, won’t disappoint. if you'd like to learn more on the History of Chianti, click here:

Sergio Ceccherini

Where is Chianti, is Florence in Tuscany?

Among the first questions I get asked on my Tuscany wine tours are: is Chianti in Tuscany, is Florence in Tuscany? So here’s the answer.

Chianti is a geographical area located south of Florence in central Italy. Chianti and Florence are both to be found in Tuscany which is one of Italy’s twenty political regions. Florence is the capital of Tuscany. See the map below, Tuscany in brown and dot in the middle is Chianti.

Due to Italy’s highly varied geography, the twenty regions also offer very different scenery, not to mention culture. Tuscany has been blessed by the gods, and is Italy’s (and perhaps the world’s) richest region in terms of art, architecture and culture. Not to mention the gorgeous scenery of Chianti and Val d’Orcia.

Excellent wines are produced here too, the most famous being Chianti and Brunello. There’s also an important amount of light industry and services. In fact though we know Tuscany best for tourism, culture and wine, these are secondary in gross income to industry.

Sergio Ceccherini

When to take my Photogaphy tour of the Val d’Orcia

Choosing the right time for your photographic tour of the Val d’Orcia is very important. The Val d'Orcia has ever changing colors depending on the farming cycles. The classic photos of green fields are taken from March to May. Then from June to mid July we have the gold of ripening wheat, and from mid July through October the less interesting time of brown ploughed fields. Be sure to keep these aspects in mind before booking your tour.

 As we all know, the best time for landscape photos is early morning and late afternoon.  Due to work commitments, I can’t offer these times. We instead arrive in the area about 11:00am, and leave around  5:00pm. The tour is therefore a compromise, If you’re looking for the dramatic scenes of the professionals, this isn’t the tour for you. By the way, even the professionals sometimes need weeks to get the perfect picture.

The photos below are all taken by me with a compact digital camera. They were taken between 2:00pm and 4:30pm and represent what to expect if the weather is favorable.

Classic photo of the Val d'Orcia from March to May

Another important aspect to consider is; most of the famous sites have the sun looking into the camera in the morning, so the best landscape photos are to be had during the afternoon. How many scenes we photograph depends on how long we stay at each site. We can spend longer getting an alternative viewpoint, or be happy with the first shot. This choice is up to you and you may decide freely.

Classic Val d'Orcia photo mid June to mid July

Many people ask me about photos of Poppies. Well they bloom throughout May, but rarely do they grow in the same place twice, so I don’t know in advance where we’ll find them.

Classic Val d'Orcia photo in August

Another common request is for sunflower scenes. Unfortunately sunflower scenes are not part of the Val d’Orcia, the crop here is wheat, plus a small area of vineyards around Montalcino. We may however find some fields on our way south from Florence, and if the farmers have been kind to us, we may still get that much desired picture.

On the way to Val d'Orcia we found some sunflowers

So why take the tour with me? Well firstly there aren’t many offers for this type of tour…so you’re sort of stuck with me anyway. If you’re looking for professional results, I can't help you, however I believe there are a couple of professional photographers who may be able to help you, and they can be found on the net. If on the other hand you’re just a person who enjoys taking photos from time to time, then I’m the man to contact. I don’t profess to know every corner of the Val d’Orcia, but I’ve hunted down a number of the best scenes over the years and I’ll give you the benefit of my experience. You’ll get more with me in an afternoon than in several days on your own.

You could even turn your photography tour in a wine and photography tour. Take a look here:

Val D'Orcia and Brunello Wine Tasting

Last but not least, be prepared for some discomfort, mud, dust, heat and the sharp cutting edges of the wheat when harvested. Bring comfortable but dispensable footwear.

The price of a good photo in Val d'Orcia

Sergio Ceccherini

Olive Oil from Tuscany

Olive oil from Tuscany is becoming ever more popular, and maybe you’ll want to try some while touring Italy, but you may be in for a surprise; the real McCoy tastes a lot different to what you may be used to.

The corporate companies that supply supermarkets have little concern for quality, despite what they publicize or write on the bottle. It’s a question of economics. A single tree will yield about six pints of high quality oil, and this is just too little if you need to produce huge quantities at low prices. So they resort to a number of nasty tricks to dilute the oil, or use otherwise unsuitable (rotting or fermenting) olives, then correct the inevitable faults chemically. As most industrial concerns producing cheap olive oil use the same methods, these oils have the same flavor, and maybe it’s the one your used too.  Unfortunately European legislation is just not strict enough, and it’s easy to fraud or even legally produce bad olive oil. I’ll not write a lengthy article on why this is, just take my word for it.

Typical color of newly milled Olive Oil

I’m betting you've never tasted a genuine high quality Olive oil from Tuscany, and when you do it can be quite a surprise. It’s bitter and fruity and doesn't have an exaggerated taste of olives. However if you taste an industrial oil side by side, the difference becomes immediately apparent. You’ll unlikely want the bad stuff again. The word most people use to describe the smell and flavor of industrial oils is, “rancid.”

 Fortunately there are a number of high quality producers in Tuscany, and some also have the DOP or IGP certification. These acronyms define the geographical origins of the oil, but more importantly that the oil has been tasted and analyzed by the authorities, who certify its quality. The oil is submitted for anonymous laboratory analysis, and is also subject to a blind tasting by a panel of experts. Only if it passes both tests is the company allowed to add DOP or IGP. When buying Italian olive oil back home look for the acronyms on the label.

A word on prices. I can’t say that paying a high price tag will guarantee you get quality olive oil, but a low price will definitely guarantee bad oil.

Click here to find out more about my Olive Oil and Wine tour.


Sergio Ceccherini

Touring Tuscany (Chianti) by Bus

To see the best of Chianti and more of it in a single day, you really do need hire someone who knows the area well. That’s expensive I know, so here’s a cheaper way to go about things. 

Fortunately at least one scenic Chianti wine road the “Chiantigiana,” is served by bus line. You can catch the bus at the main bus station in Florence (near the main rail station). The line to look for is the 365 for Gaiole - Castellina - Panzano - Greve (via Ferrone/Strada) - Firenze. You’d be best going directly to the station for times and info, as their site (Bus Italia Nord) seems to be in Italian only. However there is an on line timetable if you know Italian. 

It's a pleasant trip of about an hour from Florence to Panzano, which is where I suggest you make your first and southern most stop. Take a walk up the steep main street of the village to a delightful enoteca (wine shop) called Accademia del Buon Gusto (Piazza Ricasoli 11, +39 055 856 0159). A great wine tasting is available "without obligations". The owner Stefano Salvadori is a knowledgeable host, an expert on wines, and last but not least, quite a character. You’ll have a fun time and you'll probably end up buying something anyhow, but it needn't be expensive. For lunch you may like to try Dario Cecchini the Butcher's fast food joint. Dario Cecchini is another lively character who’s made a name for himself with the Chianti Hamburger. My opinion? Well it’s a huge hamburger, but why come all this way to eat a hamburger. I’d go for Tuscan home cooking at La Cantinetta Sassolini which just opposite the Accademia, mentioned above, or Oltre il Giardino near the main road. Just ask you can’t miss either of them. If you choose the suggested light lunch menus, you'll dine inexpensively too. 

To walk it all off, take the village street up to the church and follow it round to the left for some splendid views over the Conca d'Oro (Golden valley), one of Chianti’s most picturesque areas. Now take the bus back to Florence and Greve in Chianti the capital of Chianti Classico, and browse the arcaded piazza and a wine shop or two. You might also like to visit the “other” butcher’s shop “Falorni,” but this one I recommend. It’s famous for Tuscan specialties such as salami, prosciutto and sausages. Take another bus north one stop to Greti, and here you’ll find the roadside tasting room of Castello di Verrazzano. Maybe you could ask the bus driver to tell you when you arrive, they’re usually quite helpful. The address is Via Citille 32, Tel +39 055 854243, and it’s along the main road. It's free to taste here, and there are affordable bottles from this fine history making estate. 

Your DIY Tuscan Tour ends here and the last bus back to Florence leaves at 8 pm weekdays and 5 pm on Saturdays. Don’t bother on a Sunday. The bus fare will set you back about €10, which is a whole lot less than what I’d ask you. However if there are more of you, seven is the perfect number in order to spend the least, then for €55 you can have a luxurious day. 

Take a look here: Scenic Wine Tours in Tuscany.

Sergio Ceccherini

Sergio Ceccherini

A word about Tours in Tuscany (Chianti)

Chianti isn't just a wine, but a well defined region of central Tuscany and the wine takes its name from the region. The etymology of its name is open to debate, however it goes back many centuries. Worth noting is the production zone for Chianti wine reaches vastly further than the actual geographical boundaries. The geographical boundaries, are the lands between Florence to the North, and Siena to the South.

Chianti is synonymous to Tuscany, and when people say they’d like to tour Tuscany, they’re usually thinking of Chianti, not realizing that Tuscany is a vaster place of about 8,870 sq miles. However Chianti is by far (along with the Val d’Orcia), Tuscany’s prettiest and most Iconic region. Vineyards, old farmhouses, woodland and cypress trees, adorn the hills as far as the eye can see. Great attention is paid to the aesthetics of the land by farmers and vine growers, giving yet another element of engaging beauty.

Some think of Chianti as a place only for wine aficionados, but what a mistake! It’s one of the world’s most beautiful locations, and a must for anyone who enjoys splendid countryside or photography. I've been driving around Chianti most of my life, and I assure you I never tire of the scenery. After so many years I still do photographic tours of Chianti for my own enjoyment.

If you want to do your own scenic tour of Chianti, I suggest you start at the Tignanello vineyards where you can enjoy the panorama from the road. It’s not easy to find, but head for Santa Maria Macerata Greve in Chianti, and you’ll get there. Then go to Gabbiano Castle, for some more lovely photos of Chianti, they don’t mind if you browse around. After Gabbiano Castle, back track towards Quattro strade then take the secondary road to Panzano in Chianti. Take in the views from Panzano, then proceed to Radda in Chianti. For your return to Florence, head back via Greve in Chianti. This route will take you to see some splendid scenery.

The Tignanello Vineyard

If you’d like to take a tour with me, click on one of these for more info.

My Scenic tour of Chianti with Wine Tasting.

My Scenic tour of Chianti for Wine Aficionados.

I've also put together a couple of tours for non wine drinkers. They combine a photographic safari of the Chianti landscapes, with visits to either San Gimignano or Siena.

My Chianti Scenic Tour & Visit to Siena.

My Chianti Scenic Tour & Visit to San Gimignano.

Sergio Ceccherini