When to take my Photogaphy tour of the Val d’Orcia

Choosing the right time for your photographic tour of the Val d’Orcia is very important. The Val d'Orcia has ever changing colors depending on the farming cycles. The classic photos of green fields are taken from March to May. Then from June to mid July we have the gold of ripening wheat, and from mid July through October the less interesting time of brown ploughed fields. Be sure to keep these aspects in mind before booking your tour.

 As we all know, the best time for landscape photos is early morning and late afternoon.  Due to work commitments, I can’t offer these times. We instead arrive in the area about 11:00am, and leave around  5:00pm. The tour is therefore a compromise, If you’re looking for the dramatic scenes of the professionals, this isn’t the tour for you. By the way, even the professionals sometimes need weeks to get the perfect picture.

The photos below are all taken by me with a compact digital camera. They were taken between 2:00pm and 4:30pm and represent what to expect if the weather is favorable.

Classic photo of the Val d'Orcia from March to May

Another important aspect to consider is; most of the famous sites have the sun looking into the camera in the morning, so the best landscape photos are to be had during the afternoon. How many scenes we photograph depends on how long we stay at each site. We can spend longer getting an alternative viewpoint, or be happy with the first shot. This choice is up to you and you may decide freely.

Classic Val d'Orcia photo mid June to mid July

Many people ask me about photos of Poppies. Well they bloom throughout May, but rarely do they grow in the same place twice, so I don’t know in advance where we’ll find them.

Classic Val d'Orcia photo in August

Another common request is for sunflower scenes. Unfortunately sunflower scenes are not part of the Val d’Orcia, the crop here is wheat, plus a small area of vineyards around Montalcino. We may however find some fields on our way south from Florence, and if the farmers have been kind to us, we may still get that much desired picture.

On the way to Val d'Orcia we found some sunflowers

So why take the tour with me? Well firstly there aren’t many offers for this type of tour…so you’re sort of stuck with me anyway. If you’re looking for professional results, I can't help you, however I believe there are a couple of professional photographers who may be able to help you, and they can be found on the net. If on the other hand you’re just a person who enjoys taking photos from time to time, then I’m the man to contact. I don’t profess to know every corner of the Val d’Orcia, but I’ve hunted down a number of the best scenes over the years and I’ll give you the benefit of my experience. You’ll get more with me in an afternoon than in several days on your own.

You could even turn your photography tour in a wine and photography tour. Take a look here:

Val D'Orcia and Brunello Wine Tasting

Last but not least, be prepared for some discomfort, mud, dust, heat and the sharp cutting edges of the wheat when harvested. Bring comfortable but dispensable footwear.

The price of a good photo in Val d'Orcia

Sergio Ceccherini

Olive Oil from Tuscany

Olive oil from Tuscany is becoming ever more popular, and maybe you’ll want to try some while touring Italy, but you may be in for a surprise; the real McCoy tastes a lot different to what you may be used to.

The corporate companies that supply supermarkets have little concern for quality, despite what they publicize or write on the bottle. It’s a question of economics. A single tree will yield about six pints of high quality oil, and this is just too little if you need to produce huge quantities at low prices. So they resort to a number of nasty tricks to dilute the oil, or use otherwise unsuitable (rotting or fermenting) olives, then correct the inevitable faults chemically. As most industrial concerns producing cheap olive oil use the same methods, these oils have the same flavor, and maybe it’s the one your used too.  Unfortunately European legislation is just not strict enough, and it’s easy to fraud or even legally produce bad olive oil. I’ll not write a lengthy article on why this is, just take my word for it.

Typical color of newly milled Olive Oil

I’m betting you've never tasted a genuine high quality Olive oil from Tuscany, and when you do it can be quite a surprise. It’s bitter and fruity and doesn't have an exaggerated taste of olives. However if you taste an industrial oil side by side, the difference becomes immediately apparent. You’ll unlikely want the bad stuff again. The word most people use to describe the smell and flavor of industrial oils is, “rancid.”

 Fortunately there are a number of high quality producers in Tuscany, and some also have the DOP or IGP certification. These acronyms define the geographical origins of the oil, but more importantly that the oil has been tasted and analyzed by the authorities, who certify its quality. The oil is submitted for anonymous laboratory analysis, and is also subject to a blind tasting by a panel of experts. Only if it passes both tests is the company allowed to add DOP or IGP. When buying Italian olive oil back home look for the acronyms on the label.

A word on prices. I can’t say that paying a high price tag will guarantee you get quality olive oil, but a low price will definitely guarantee bad oil.

Click here to find out more about my Olive Oil and Wine tour.


Sergio Ceccherini

Touring Tuscany (Chianti) by Bus

To see the best of Chianti and more of it in a single day, you really do need hire someone who knows the area well. That’s expensive I know, so here’s a cheaper way to go about things. 

Fortunately at least one scenic Chianti wine road the “Chiantigiana,” is served by bus line. You can catch the bus at the main bus station in Florence (near the main rail station). The line to look for is the 365 for Gaiole - Castellina - Panzano - Greve (via Ferrone/Strada) - Firenze. You’d be best going directly to the station for times and info, as their site (Bus Italia Nord) seems to be in Italian only. However there is an on line timetable if you know Italian. 

It's a pleasant trip of about an hour from Florence to Panzano, which is where I suggest you make your first and southern most stop. Take a walk up the steep main street of the village to a delightful enoteca (wine shop) called Accademia del Buon Gusto (Piazza Ricasoli 11, +39 055 856 0159). A great wine tasting is available "without obligations". The owner Stefano Salvadori is a knowledgeable host, an expert on wines, and last but not least, quite a character. You’ll have a fun time and you'll probably end up buying something anyhow, but it needn't be expensive. For lunch you may like to try Dario Cecchini the Butcher's fast food joint. Dario Cecchini is another lively character who’s made a name for himself with the Chianti Hamburger. My opinion? Well it’s a huge hamburger, but why come all this way to eat a hamburger. I’d go for Tuscan home cooking at La Cantinetta Sassolini which just opposite the Accademia, mentioned above, or Oltre il Giardino near the main road. Just ask you can’t miss either of them. If you choose the suggested light lunch menus, you'll dine inexpensively too. 

To walk it all off, take the village street up to the church and follow it round to the left for some splendid views over the Conca d'Oro (Golden valley), one of Chianti’s most picturesque areas. Now take the bus back to Florence and Greve in Chianti the capital of Chianti Classico, and browse the arcaded piazza and a wine shop or two. You might also like to visit the “other” butcher’s shop “Falorni,” but this one I recommend. It’s famous for Tuscan specialties such as salami, prosciutto and sausages. Take another bus north one stop to Greti, and here you’ll find the roadside tasting room of Castello di Verrazzano. Maybe you could ask the bus driver to tell you when you arrive, they’re usually quite helpful. The address is Via Citille 32, Tel +39 055 854243, and it’s along the main road. It's free to taste here, and there are affordable bottles from this fine history making estate. 

Your DIY Tuscan Tour ends here and the last bus back to Florence leaves at 8 pm weekdays and 5 pm on Saturdays. Don’t bother on a Sunday. The bus fare will set you back about €10, which is a whole lot less than what I’d ask you. However if there are more of you, seven is the perfect number in order to spend the least, then for €55 you can have a luxurious day. 

Take a look here: Scenic Wine Tours in Tuscany.

Sergio Ceccherini

Sergio Ceccherini

A word about Tours in Tuscany (Chianti)

Chianti isn't just a wine, but a well defined region of central Tuscany and the wine takes its name from the region. The etymology of its name is open to debate, however it goes back many centuries. Worth noting is the production zone for Chianti wine reaches vastly further than the actual geographical boundaries. The geographical boundaries, are the lands between Florence to the North, and Siena to the South.

Chianti is synonymous to Tuscany, and when people say they’d like to tour Tuscany, they’re usually thinking of Chianti, not realizing that Tuscany is a vaster place of about 8,870 sq miles. However Chianti is by far (along with the Val d’Orcia), Tuscany’s prettiest and most Iconic region. Vineyards, old farmhouses, woodland and cypress trees, adorn the hills as far as the eye can see. Great attention is paid to the aesthetics of the land by farmers and vine growers, giving yet another element of engaging beauty.

Some think of Chianti as a place only for wine aficionados, but what a mistake! It’s one of the world’s most beautiful locations, and a must for anyone who enjoys splendid countryside or photography. I've been driving around Chianti most of my life, and I assure you I never tire of the scenery. After so many years I still do photographic tours of Chianti for my own enjoyment.

If you want to do your own scenic tour of Chianti, I suggest you start at the Tignanello vineyards where you can enjoy the panorama from the road. It’s not easy to find, but head for Santa Maria Macerata Greve in Chianti, and you’ll get there. Then go to Gabbiano Castle, for some more lovely photos of Chianti, they don’t mind if you browse around. After Gabbiano Castle, back track towards Quattro strade then take the secondary road to Panzano in Chianti. Take in the views from Panzano, then proceed to Radda in Chianti. For your return to Florence, head back via Greve in Chianti. This route will take you to see some splendid scenery.

The Tignanello Vineyard

If you’d like to take a tour with me, click on one of these for more info.

My Scenic tour of Chianti with Wine Tasting.

My Scenic tour of Chianti for Wine Aficionados.

I've also put together a couple of tours for non wine drinkers. They combine a photographic safari of the Chianti landscapes, with visits to either San Gimignano or Siena.

My Chianti Scenic Tour & Visit to Siena.

My Chianti Scenic Tour & Visit to San Gimignano.

Sergio Ceccherini

" I don't want to go back to Florence."

Now here's a phrase I've heard more than once, and again just the other day from Paula and Rina (look up my facebook page). Not that there's anything wrong with Florence, if you exclude the noise, traffic, even noisier scooters, crowds and heat. So after a day in the relaxed open spaces of the Chianti countryside (with me of course), the thought of returning to it all is often daunting. With few exceptions it's back to your room with insufficient AC, (now everybody complains about this), and when you open the window for some air, you get blasted by a scooter, a bus, another scooter, yet another bus, and your olfactory senses delight in the fragrance of traffic fumes. Then out to dinner in a crowded restaurant, and later looking for somewhere to sit in a crowded cafe. Back to your room for a well earned night's sleep. Of course the scooters never sleep, and the loutish drunks yelling at the top of their obnoxious heads just have to let everyone know they're around.

So…if your coming to Italy to relax from the stress of your job and city life, you may not enjoy Florence that much. Sure a visit is an absolute must, I wouldn't dream of saying otherwise, but if your idea of a holiday is a quite room, where an open window means the breeze in the trees, and a cocktail by the pool with a view over Tuscan hills, you'd do well to forget Florence. So where do you want to go? Easy; just choose alternative accommodation in an agriturismo or villa in the spectacular countryside or in  the small picturesque towns of Chianti. There's an ample choice of varied accommodation, from basic and economic, to all out luxury.

However, lets' consider Florence again. I said Florence is a stressful city, but I didn't say it's to be avoided, how could I 12 million visitors can't be wrong? But if you're looking for peace and quite, the trick is to stay somewhere not too distant so you may get a bus or train into the city. If the accommodation is very remote, you may need a hire car, and if you really want to relax, then hire a driver guide like myself (why do you think I'm writing this article)? Another very important factor to consider, is the strategic position of Chianti to the rest of Tuscany. You'll no doubt want to do some touring, and Chianti is ideally located. You can easily tour Chianti itself, and you're within reasonable travel time to all the other must sees. Don't make the common mistake of judging travel times by your standards; roads in Tuscany are different. They're very busy, very windy and very slow. So a strategic position is important, for anyone wanting to do day tours, that don't involve endless hours sitting in a vehicle.

At this point why not look up a site or two that'll give you all the info you require to start considering your ideal accommodation. Here are some suggestions.

http://www.chianti.info/ Everything about Chianti, Italy

A travel guide for Chianti and Tuscany and accommodation.

http://www.bella-toscana.com/   Vacation accommodations in Tuscany

A huge selection of vacation accommodation in Tuscany, and lots of unusual but interesting info.

http://www.greve-in-chianti.com/ 

Wide selection of accommodation in Chianti, and info about Greve in Chianti too.

Sergio Ceccherini

Agriturismo in Loro Ciuffenna.

Loro Ciuffenna is a tiny but delightful town in the Valdarno region of Tuscany. The Valdarno is Chianti's "poorer" sister and little considered by visitors from America and Asia, but very popular with European and Italian holiday makers. It's located about an hour south east of Florence, and due to the rural nature of the region, a car will be necessary. However the Valdarno area is well served by train from the main towns of San Giovanni and Montevarchi. If you don't want to drive you can always hire a driver guide, and I live on the spot. You can find me here: Scenic Wine Tours in Tuscany.

Most of the accommodation in Loro Ciuffenna is "Agriturismo" (vacation accommodation on farms), with locations in rural and remote areas. Some Agriturismo in Loro Ciuffenna are rather basic, while others offer high levels of luxury and every comfort. The common denominator is a countryside location and self catering. However, the degree of extra services can vary greatly from basic to five star, but this is an option for your consideration and not a fault. You can save a lot of money in the basic Agriturismi, or spend more and be pampered to the full. By Italian law the farm should be operational, and in Loro Ciuffenna most are. A small number have little to do with farming, and could be classed as country hotels. Again this isn't a shortcoming, but an option to consider when making your choice.

Loro Ciuffenna a view of town

Why choose an Agriturismo in Loro Ciuffenna? Well prices are a little lower than in the other more popular areas, and if you're looking for peaceful isolated locations with stunning scenery, this is the place to be. It's also well away from the usual tourist routes, and you get a much closer feel of what everyday Tuscany is all about. 

The best scenery is to be had in the hills in and around Loro Ciuffenna, which also offers a breezy climate in summer. A Godsend after a day in Florence! The tiny but pretty town sits on a gorge, and offers a choice of three restaurants, a pizzeria and three bars for breakfast or evening aperitif, not to mention a first class Gelateria open in summer. On Saturday evenings during July and August the centre of town is closed off to traffic, and you can sit at a table with the locals enjoying a drink in the central piazza. If you're need  groceries for you meal back at the house, you'll find all you need in the local Supermarket and grocery store. The grocery store in particular, offers a wide choice of local goodies such as sheep's cheese, cold cuts and olive oil. They also have homemade precooked dishes well worth trying. An Agriturismo in the Loro Ciuffenna area will give you the advantage of an isolated refuge, while being close enough to a town that can cater for all your basic needs.

Sergio Ceccherini

Touring in Loro Ciuffena.

Many visitors don't take full advantage of Touring in Loro Ciuffenna. They assume they have to travel to the big guns elswhere, overlooking the treasures on the doorstep. This isn't really their a fault as little information is available in guide books, and even the local tourist board does little to promote the area, but that's where I come in. Take a look at my Cheese Making and Tuscan Olive Oil Tour and you'll see just how much the region has to offer. If you decide to forgoe the advantages of touring with me, I'll give you a few tips all the same.

Drive along the Setteponti  (seven bridges) road from Reggello to Loro Ciuffenna and you'll be treated to a  beautiful drive through neatly manicured, terraced olive orchards with outstanding views overlooking the Arno valley. If you drive slowly with stops for photos, it'll take just over an hour.

The Setteponti Road

Olive oil is the region's most important product, not only economically, but culturally. Certainly. Here it's more important than wine. You'll see a couple of mills during your drive, and If you want to taste genuine olive oil and not the stuff you find in supermarkets, then you couldn't be in a better place. You could try Santa Tea mill in Reggello, who do tastings and guided tours. Alternatively, buy a small bottle at a local grocery store, they always stock the genuine article. Remember they have to sell to the locals who are all savvy when it come to olive oil. Ask for oil from Gropina, you can't get more local than this, and I assure you it's the real McCoy. Expect a price tag of 8-12 euro per litre.

Another gastronomical delight is sheep's cheese made by the small artisanal dairies of the region. No industries here. Again try a local grocer (not supermarket) and ask for "Pecorino Locale." Pair it with a glass or two of Chianti, a piece of Tuscan bread - broken not sliced, and it's a feast for a king.

Walk around the village of Loro Ciuffenna where you'll have some great photo opportunities,  and be sure to cross the Ponte Romanico (Romanesque Bridge) for a view over the gorge. Ask any local to point it out. You might like to have lunch in Loro too. You can choose from a frugal but tasty snack at the Bar Centrale in the piazza (closed Tuesdays), or one of the three restaurants all within a minute's walk.

Then from Loro Ciuffenna, (locally just called Loro) head up into the mountains towards the tiny little mountain village of Trappola. It takes about fifteen minutes. The drive is spectacular with views of terraced olive orchards and the Valdarno (Arno Valley) in the distance. Walk around the ancient village of Trappola, and again enjoy the splendid views and absolute peace away from cars and crowds. You'll probably be the only tourists too, and the locals are always friendly towards the few visitors they receive. There's a rustic bar/restaurant called Vin' de Nuvoli were you can get an economical bite to eat. Maybe the cheese and wine I suggested earlier. Actually they have a well stocked wine cellar, you could try something special too. It's open 7/7 from May to September.

Around six in the evening head down to San Giovanni Valdarno (twenty minutes from Loro) and  join the locals for their evening stroll in Corso Italia (Main Street). The object is to walk slowly form one end of the street to the other more than once, while conversing, people watching, having  a gelato and browsing the shop windows. The town is also architecturally interesting, so don't forget to look around and up. Last but definitely not least…take it easy just like the locals.

copyright Sergio Ceccherini © Scenic Wine Tours in Tuscany 2012. All rights reserved.

How to enjoy Chianti Classico Wine

There are eight geographical sub-zones for Chianti wines, and each produces a slightly different wine. My tours are mainly in the Chianti Classico area for two reasons. The first is that in my opinion it's the region which guarantees the highest standards of quality for Chianti wines. The second, the scenery is just so breathtaking. So maybe a word on how to enjoy Chianti Classico wine would be in worth talking about.

A cellar on my Wine Lover's Special Tour

First things first. To enjoy to Chianti wine to the full, it must be paired with food. In Italian food culture, and particularly in Tuscany, wine has always been intended to accompany food, and not as as a stand alone drink. There are exceptions to this rule, but for Chianti it's not in question.

If you're used to new world wines that are big and easy to drink, your first sip of Chianti you could be disappointing. You may find it dry and sour, and frankly, drinking Chianti on it's own is an acquired taste. But add food; anything with a salt and fat content and your perception will change drastically. In scientific terms, this is due to the chemical combinations that occur between the wine and food when in the mouth. In more pleasurable terms, Chianti doesn't cover the flavour of food, but rather blends with it, and in the process becomes velvety smooth. So pair Chianti with savoury red sauce dishes (the sauce should be made with olive oil or butter), red meats, cheeses and cold cuts. You can also serve it as an aperitif, just add appetizers. Never serve Chianti with sweets, it's awful. Sauces like ketchup (sweet & sour) are not good either. Open the bottle at least four hours before serving and above all, ensure it's at room temperature (65 F). By the way, a pairing I discovered by accident is young Chianti not barrel aged, with curry...it's fantastic

Winery courtyard on my Wine lover's Special Tour

Chianti Classico general tasting notes:
Colour: ruby red tending to purple brown with maturation.

Nose: vinous, with a scent of violets, dried plum and cherries. When aged in barrels, pepper, tobacco and chocolate.

In the mouth: warm, medium bodied, quite fresh & tannic, with predominant plum flavors.

Best between: four and nine years.

Serving: always at room temperature 65°F.

Pairing: Savoury dishes, meats, cheeses and cold cuts.

You might like to look over my Wine Lovers' Special Chianti Scenic Tour, maybe come for a visit and put my opinions to the test.

Website and content copyright Sergio Ceccherini © Scenic Wine Tours in Tuscany 2012 - 2013.
All rights reserved.